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Home » FeatureStory
Kuala Gula needs no introduction but that’s just a blip on the State map. Getting there, however, takes you through over 200km of mangrove swamp forests lining the shore. Imagine the scale of opportunity for bird watching if you are to comb the entire area. This is the corridor of Bagan Datoh-Tanjung Piandang, the best place to paddle and waddle from the tip to the toe of the State to catch a glimpse of avian splendour. It’s at its best notably from November to March when colonies of birds fly in from the Asian continent to escape the harsh winter there. You’ll be astounded! Bearing in mind that bird-watchers in the peninsula have recorded over 600 bird species, one can easily shoot dozens of bird species on film here. As an added bonus, you can even go on a seafood spree after. Raptor Watch Between Bagan Datoh and Pantai Remis, the shores are inundated with fishing villages, not birds, but the Segari Forest Reserve is a worthy stopover. While a trickle of visitors finds its way to Segari Turtle Sanctuary Reserve, not many know that the forest also hides a lonely bay called Teluk Senangin. The beach is flanked by secondary forest and the canopy provides good cover for spying on raptors like Grey-faced Buzzards, Osprey, Rufous-bellied Eagle and Oriental Pied Hornbill, which is also commonly found in nearby Pangkor island. For an overnighter, there are budget chalets run by villagers in Teluk Senangin. Off The Beaten Path After Teluk Senangin, skip the heavily-trodden Pantai Remis and stop instead at Kampung Sungai Kerang. Some time back, the State Land Office leased islets nearby for oil palm planting but the project didn’t take off well, leaving many parts ravaged and unattended. Strike a deal with any of the boatmen at Sungai Kerang jetty for a 20min ride to adjacent Pulau Pasir Hitam. Once there, man-made paths and abandoned agricultural grounds are good spots for peeking at feathered residents. Keep your eyes peeled for rare species like Mangrove Blue Flycatcher, Eurasian Curlew and Dusky Eagle Owl which prey on the rat population in plantations. This is no man’s land and overnights are only possible if you bring your own camping gear. Don’t forget to pay the boatman generously to ensure he comes back for the return trip! Into The Mangroves Further north is Terong, a hamlet stuck in a time warp. Locals walk slowly and talk even slower. Take it from us — don’t knock yourself out trying to explain the concept of bird watching to them. All you get is a bewildered look, followed by “huh, demo nak apo?” That’s “what do they want” in local lingo. Cut to the chase, find a boatman loitering at the jetty and tell him you want to go sightseeing in Pulau Terong. For the best communication breakthrough, just say “nak makan angin”, literally “taking in the air”. On Saturdays and Sundays, fishermen don’t go to sea and would be glad to give you a boat tour for a small fee (we paid RM100 for a two-hour cruise around the mangrove islet). Pulau Terong is a mangrove forest reserve protected by the Wildlife Department and it’s brimming with wetland birds. As insurance, bring along life jackets as navigating mangrove swamp on a small, swaying boat can leave your hair standing on ends. Switch off the engine and paddle to prevent spooking the birds. Wild Beauties The corridor between Kuala Sepetang and Tanjung Piandang impresses nature lovers. Although Kuala Gula is now world famous, other hotspots like Pulau Kalumpang, Pulau Selinsing and Pulau Sangga Besar deserve a mention, too These are such a melting pot for birds that it’s impossible for a bird-watcher to have a bad day though the one you should keep an eye out for is definitely the endangered Milky Stork. Kuala Gula’s mangrove-draped shoreline is one of the last places in the country where these majestic birds with long, sexy legs thrive. Admire their bills that jut out from reddish naked face. Silky white body feathers contrast with shiny, greenish black tail and flight feathers. Seeing them is like hitting the lottery. During social play, you hear bills clattering and wing noise and in feeding areas, their flight activities are highly contagious. One bird takes off, and others, even those of a different species, take off too. Also keep a look out for its bigger and taller relative, the somewhat unsung Lesser Adjutant. Bald but beautiful, an adult Lesser Adjutant stands at 1.2m and has a striking yellow long neck. Often seen perching on the tallest trees, one can hear their call from miles away. Don’t forget to veer over to inland padi plains and coconut groves of Kerian too. Exotic birds in these habitats are equally a visual feast. Insider Tips It’s best to backpack or, if you drive there and your vehicle is big enough, bring along a bicycle. Walking or cycling is a practical way to cover the secluded area and the quiet allows you to sneak up on the birds for close up look and photography. Start off early in the morning and take breaks along the way. There are lots of seafood eateries along the way that won’t burn a hole in your pocket. Buying water and snacks are not a problem either. Locals can be wary of outsiders, but where words fail, a smile can work wonders. How To Get There We suggest that you start the birding blitz from Bagan Datoh and then travel north. Because mornings are the best time for bird watching and especially for photography, you’ll appreciate the morning sunrays pointing westwards over the shoreline where early birds come out to play. This gives the best photography effects. From Kuala Lumpur, one can reach Bagan Datoh via Kuala Selangor coastal road. For those from Penang, the Penang-Perak border town of Parit Buntar should be your gateway to the coastal region. Chalets are available at Kuala Gula, Kuala Sepetang, Pantai Remis, Teluk Senangin and Lumut.
 
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